February 23, 2012

A Traditional Italian Christmas in Civate, Italy

 

Civate Northern Italy

What to expect from a Traditional Italian Christmas? Food, lots and lots of food! I spent Christmas in Italy, in the town of Civate. Civate is surrounded by mountains and a big lake. It’s a small town an hour north of Milan, it’s the kind of town where everyone knows your name!

I was lucky to be able to experience a traditional Italian Christmas and after spending Easter in Italy I was well prepared for the amount of food to expect! My dear friend, Chiara, has a large family who take eating very seriously – there was so much food on the Christmas table that we had to take a break after eating the first two courses!

A traditional Italian Christmas doesn’t differ too much from a normal Christmas day and usually begins with Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. Presents are exchanged in front of the Christmas tree (even if there are no children aged under 18) and the kitchen is working non-stop to produce a spectacular feast.

Antipasto Platter

Starter: Antipasti

Meat-Ravioli

First course: Pasta

Christmas Roast Italian Style

 Mains: Pan-roasted pork loin and chicken with chocolate and raisin stuffing

Christmas Panettone

Dolce or dessert: Panettone with zabaione (custard cream  made with eggs, sugar and liquer) 

Grazie mille to Chiara and her family for allowing me to share Christmas with them, when you’re miles away from home being welcomed by another family makes you feel full of Christmas spirit.

 

Restaurant Review of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal

Mr Heston Blumenthal is one of the UK’s most infamous celebrity chefs. His aim is to make food fun. The kitchen is his theatre and the theatrics that appears on your plates are nothing short of extraordinary.

Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is an extravagant experience. So it was a very special glamorous way to celebrate my 26th birthday with five of my closest friends at the very posh Mandarin Oriental Hotel in London.

This stylish affair is set in a restaurant that overlooks Hyde Park, where we could see the lights of Winter Wonderland and the towering ferris wheel. It was a busy Sunday evening and in the Heston’s restaurant you can see directly into the theatrics of the open kitchen. It’s like a fishbowl for patrons and the chefs!

Meat fruit is one of Heston’s well-known dishes. On the outside it looks like a mandarin. Inside its actually pate! The pate is deliciously creamy whilst the ‘skin’ of the mandarin has a hint of Clementine!

meatfruit

The main I chose was a recipe adapted from 1630 – pigeon cooked in ale and cider. It was a rich dish, the pigeon was very tender without being gamey and the sauce was well combined with artichokes.

pigeoninaleandcider

The tipsy cake made my tastebuds sing! This cake is slow cooked and accompanied by roasted pineapple.

tipsycake

To finish the night…a touch of chocolate ganache!

chocolateganache

xmas-tree-mandarin-oriental-london

The Mandarin Oriental Hotel has a beautiful Christmas tree in the main lobby as well as a roaring fireplace. Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and Christmas in London, what more could a girl want for her birthday?

The Best Food Market in Madrid: Mercado San Miguel

Mercado de san miguel

The Best Food Market in Madrid is Mercado San Miguel. It has every local delicacy your tastebuds need in Spain! Iberica jamon, seafood, sangria, chocolate…there are so many stalls each selling gastronomical delights.

Mercado San Miguel is situated to the east of Plaza Major. On my last whirlwind visit to Madrid I didn’t manage to fit Mercado San Miguel into my 24 hour itinerary. This time on a longer, more relaxed weekender in Madrid, there was plenty of time to indulge!

Churros at Mercado San Miguel

Churros con chocolate

Sangria at Mercado San Miguel

Two Euro Sangria

How do you order sangria at Mercado San Miguel? Simply say: Dos sangria per favore! I wish my Spanish extended further than that, but it is a very important expression at the bar. The sangria is refreshing with a hint of tartness, and also very cheap!

It’s always busy in Mercado San Miguel so you may have to hover like a hawk for a table. Otherwise stand like the locals who seem to have the Saturday afternoon visits to Mercado San Miguel downpat – a nice place to have a drink, catch up with friends and eat!

How to eat like a local in Paris

Olympe from Angelina Paris

They say French women don’t get fat. On a recent mother daughter trip to Paris, the reason why French women are so slim is evident in the cafes and restaurants of Paris. French women don’t gorge themselves on croissants and macarons. They eat delicately, slowly and often don’t finish their meals.

Unfortunately I’m not one to leave a half eaten croissant which cost 4 Euro on the breakfast table! However there are still many ways to taste the best foods in Paris without breaking the budget…and work it all off by walking around Paris afterwards!

How to eat like a local in Paris…for breakfast, lunch and dinner?

Breakfast in Paris

Breakfast in Paris

Going to a cafe can be expensive and drinking tea could even set you back 7 Euro. That’s pretty expensive for a habitual tea drinker! Set menus can offer you better value for money and this huge breakfast spread at a cafe included orange juice, coffee, toast and brioche…and three pastries!

Afternoon Tea in Paris

Angelina Patisserie in Paris

Indulging in afternoon tea at Angelina is a bit of a Parisien highlight. Angelina is infamous for its afternoon tea, it may not be as opulent an experience as say having afternoon tea at the Ritz in London, however the difficulty is choosing which dessert to sample. St honore? Eclair? Macaron? I chose the Olympe – a macaron with raspberries and cream.

Dinner in Paris

Roast duck in Paris Restaurant

Set menus for dinner may often fall into the tourist bracket. Avoid the tourist traps and find a bistro with chalkboard dinner specials. Busy bistros can verge on the smaller side, such as the one my mother and I visited, but the food, service and attention to detail is superb.

London Glampacker List: Review of Afternoon Tea at the Ritz

 

Glampacker at Afternoon-Tea at the Ritz, London

Enjoying afternoon tea at the Ritz was the finest, most indulgent and poshest of all my high tea experiences to date. Sharing the afternoon with two lovely friends visiting me in London all the way from Australia made the experience all the more memorable.

Afternoon tea at the Ritz, London, is often seen as one of the more touristy tea experiences in London. Don’t let that idea put you off your scones and clotted cream. In my opinion, afternoon tea experiences need a fine combination of decadent food, impeccable service and great ambience to be five-star. Even if you’re a budget traveller, some once-in-London experiences are worth shelling out for…

Cake Tier Afternoon Tea at the Ritz London

The Food

It’s the small touches that made a difference at the Ritz. You start with champagne, if you’ve opted for the champagne tea. You’re given plenty of time to sip your champers and nibble on the finger sandwiches before the tea is served. I chose the Darjeeling which is light and not too strong to complement my dessert nicely. The tea menu is printed on a takeaway card, which one of the waiters happily handed over to us to keep at the end!

Size and portions matter at afternoon tea. So when I inspected the top tier of the cake stand, we felt a little disappointed. Only 3 cakes? Really? Always having eyes bigger than my stomach, I soon realized that cakes were being served and on display on trolleys. The difficult decision was Victorian sponge or a more heavy fruit cake? Although Victorian sponge sounded like the more boring option, the sponge was light and fluffy with a touch of vanilla.

The petit fours were sweet but offset by the fresh cream. I also tried the shotglass of caramel mousse with raspberry coulis but it couldn’t compare to the cakes!

The apple and raisin scones are warmed up before being added onto your cake tier. This was the first time I’d ever had warm scones brought separately at afternoon tea! The scones are smaller than the usual big plate size scones commonly found elsewhere. Size didn’t matter as these miniature scones were light, obviously made with buttermilk and smoothly sliced open to be slathered with Devonshire clotted cream and strawberry jam.

Victorian Sponge Cake at Afternoon Tea at the Ritz

The Service

At the Ritz, the service is prompt and attentive. More sandwiches? Only want roast ham sandwiches? Not a problem. We Aussies like our ham sandwiches…The waitstaff are happy to have a chat, take your photo and don’t rush you to leave…even though I was well aware we only had a 1.5 hour time slot.

Palm Court at The Ritz London

The Ambience

It’s the Ritz. The Palm Court is opulent, the decorations are ornate and the room feels huge even though it’s not a ballroom. The room was full of other diners from families to ladies and couples with hardly an empty table in sight!

To make the afternoon even more memorable? Request a song. The classically trained pianist plays medleys of your requests. The songs I chose?

Dream a little dream. Moon River.

 

Glampacker’s Tips for Afternoon Tea at the Ritz, London:

  • Book online, dates and time slots fill in fast!
  • Dress to impress, this means frock up. You want to look as lovely as the cakes!
  • Order champagne. You’re having afternoon tea at the Ritz…this alone calls for champagne!
  • Visit the powder room because it’s pink!

 

Glampacking Spain: Eating Pintxos in San Sebastian

 

Pintxos Bar in San Sebastian

Pintxos is like tapas with a slight twist. I like to call it tapas, buffet style. In Basque country, the beachside city of San Sebastian is well-known for taking tapas very seriously. San Sebastian is full of big and little pintxos bars in Old Town. It’s so difficult to choose what to eat and which bar to go to – so bar-hopping and sampling lots of food is a must!

Sangria and pintxos

How to eat pintxos in San Sebastian best bars?

  • There are cold and hot tapas – cold tapas are spread out on the bar and there’s usually plates on hand to help yourself. You have to order the hot stuff from the chalkboard menus.
  • Prices are usually displayed at the bar and can range from 1 euro and up!
  • Pintxos isn’t meant to be a substitute for dinner, it’s meant to be a casual eating and drinking experience. If you’re famished, the tapas soon add up rather quickly!
  •  You pay what you eat. Most bars opt by the toothpick principle – the no. of toothpicks equals the no. of tapas or you simply pay when you order. Some bars just let you pay after you’ve had your fare share, so be honest!
  • What to drink with pintxos? Beer or wine? Mojitos or sangria? I think beer goes down a bit more nicely with pintxos, perhaps it’s the salty jamon on baguette bread that requires a cool beer. My best friend prefers drinking kalimotxo – coke mixed with red wine.
  • Sit or stand? I prefer sitting at a bench, you may end up at a shared table for sharing your pintxos experience with some locals.
  • What’s the singular of tapas? A tapa? Is one pintxos a pintxo? I think it’s best to just keeping eating so you don’t order just one!

 

 

Glampacking Spain: Five Foods to Try in Valencia

Glampacker with pintxos

Glampacking through Spain in the high heat of the Mediterranean summer involves a lot of drinking sangria and mojitos. Whilst travelling with our backpacks filled with maxi dresses and thongs (flip flops) and staying in four star hotels for a touch of luxury, the most important question of each evening was – what’s for dinner?  Spanish food, according to the dishes eaten by my Barcelona-born-and-bred flatmates, appears to consist of jamon (ham), tomato en pan (grated tomato on bread) and Spanish omelette (egg with sliced potatoes). In Valencia, the food didn’t disappoint!

Seafood Paella

Paella

Traditional paella is usually served as a minimum for 2 persons, cooked in a huge flat pan that covers the entire table. To differentiate the ‘real’ from the ‘frozen’ paella – it takes about 30 minutes to cook. The best bits of the paella are the parts stuck to the bottom of the pan!

Fideua

Fideua

Fideua is a close cousin of paella and is made with vermicelli pasta. Cooked with seafood, fideua is slightly lighter than eating rice-based paella but just as tasty.


Spanish omelette

Deep Fried Squid

Tapas

Tapas are small portions of food ranging from meat to seafood and vegetarian dishes. At Peprika in Valencia, one of the oldest tapas bars in the city, you can stand up at the bar, toss your mussel shells onto one of the bins on the ground, chat to the friendly bar staff and eat golden, crispy squid rings dipped into mayonnaise.

 Pintxos in Valencia

Pintxos

What’s the difference between tapas and pintxos? Well there isn’t a huge difference, often pintxos is served ‘buffet style’ so that an array of food lines the bar. This is fairly similar to aperitivo in Italy. In Valenica you usually pay by the number of ‘toothpicks’ lining your plate once you’ve finished!


Galician Octopus

Seafood

Seafood isn’t just in paella and fideua, it’s served as tapas, as mains or as an entree. Whilst this isn’t ‘Valencian’, Galician-style octopus (polpo in Spanish!) is a simple but delicious dish in which octopus is cooked tender and served simply with olive oil.

Jamie Oliver’s The Big Feastival – Great Combination of Food and Festival!

The Big Feastival Entrance

It’s hard not to like Jamie Oliver. He’s in your face with his big brand, personality and unadulterated, fun, messy cooking style. Jamie pretty much has everything – restaurants, food lines, TV shows, cook books, a magazine, the list goes on! Recently added to the list was The Big Feastival – a festival which combines eating, drinking and live music all into one!

Jamie Oliver presents Tuscan Bread Salad

I was lucky enough to win tickets to attend Jamie Oliver’s Big Feastival in Clapham Common. The Feastival was held all in the name of charity – the Prince’s Trust and the Jamie Oliver Foundation.

Jamie Oliver and Gennaro Contaldo

On a very sunny Sunday we entered the Feastival and got to see Jamie in the flesh straight away cooking in the Big Kitchen tent. It was a bit hard to see at first, he does attract a large crowd! Jamie showed off an easy peasy smoked trout with a Tuscan bread salad. He was assisted by Gennaro Contaldo who added lots of olive oil to every dish. Lovely!

Rachel Allen making flirtini
Also in the Big Kitchen was Rachel Allan showing off how to make a Flirtini and white chocolate trifle.

Peter Gordon @ the Big Feastival

Clams by Peter Gordon

Kiwi chef Peter Gordon taught us the correct way to cook cous cous – do not use boiling water and do not cover it! Use water at room temperature otherwise it gets lumpy and sodden. He mixed up cous cous with pureed broccoli as a side to accompany pan fried clams with chilli and lemongrass. For dessert he prepared a rice pudding with strawberries and vanilla. We had a taste of the clams which were juicy with a hint of spiciness.

The Big Feastival worked on a token system for the major food stalls which included well known chains like Wahaca and Gourmet Burger Kitchen, Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen and Barbecoa and restaurants like Mango Tree and Canteen.

There were lots of food sampling in the Artisan Food Markets and a big bake off in the WI Tent – which celebrated domestic goddesses with demos, knitting, art and crafts, brownies by the Beehive Bakery and a vintage clothing stall with items from Lily Allen’s store Lucy in Disguise.

What did we eat?

Chicken Satay and Roti from Awana Corn-fed chicken satay with roti from Awana

Tagliatelle from Locanda Locatelli @ The Big Feastival Tagliatelle from Locanda Locatelli

Haggis and Mash Haggis with potato mash

Okonomi-yaki from Abeno Okonomi-yaki from Abeno

This was washed down with Aperol Spritz, which I had previously in Milan, and pear cider!

Other than eating, there were lots of fun things to check out like:

  • Big music stage featuring Rockaoke – amateur singers belting out the latest hits regardless of pitch or tone!
  • The Funfair featuring a carousel and mini ferris wheel
  • Psychic readings in the Gypsy Caravans
  • The Kitchen Garden – helping non-gardeners learn how to grow an edible garden

The Scarecrow in the Kitchen Garden
The Kitchen Garden Scarecrow

Kitchen Garden Greenhouse

The Big Feastival was lots of fun with great food served up all afternoon. I purchased a Big Feastival  recipe book to cook my own feast at home, with proceeds going to charity, without using hot water in my cous cous of course!

Thank you for the lovely time, will definitely be back next year!

 

A Glamorous Michelin Star Lunch at Le Restaurant de L’Hôtel, Paris

I’ve always wanted to dine at a Michelin starred restaurant but unfortunately a glampacker’s budget doesn’t usually stretch that far. When you’re travelling on a budget usually the first thing you sacrifice is eating at fine restaurants. Once in a blue moon, or for a very ultra special occasion, you have indulge in a fine dining experience.

The occasion? Seeing my best friend in Paris, who I hadn’t seen for nearly 18 months, celebrating her birthday and the beginning of her first European adventure.

On a quiet street in Saint Germain is a boutique hotel. It has an unassuming exterior, which perhaps suggests nothing grand or luxurious about the hotel or restaurant inside.

Interior of Le Restaurant de L'Hotel

The main restaurant is a medium sized salon with heavy ornate chandeliers, gold gilded mirrors and cushioned upholstered armchairs. Breaks of sunlight filtered in through the sun roof, during a rather bleak and rainy day. Our table overlooked a small courtyard with a giant clam shell fountain. Perhaps in the 18th century the salon hosted grand literary debates…

Oscar Wilde Menu Quote

The service was extremely attentive at the restaurant, though we arrived for an early lunch at 12.30pm with a Top Table reservation, the easy-on-the-eye waiter sat us down in the lounge before preparing our table. They whisked away our shopping bags and coats before leading us to a table on the edge of the salon.

Le Restaurant has a set menu as well as ala carrte, with drinks being an additional cost. The entrée and main meal was 42 euro and entrée, main and dessert was 53 euro altogether. We deliberated over the two set menus – would we be tempted by dessert? Would we have time to go have afternoon tea and eat macarons elsewhere? With much willpower, we resisted dessert – tart or pistachio crème cherise or fromage (cheese board).

“Would you like to start with champagne?” the waiter asked before taking our order. There’s only one answer to that question!

We toasted with our Rose and Blanc Champagne to a summer in Europe and were soon presented with an Amuse Bouche – to amuse the palette. Two small morsels of a pastry encased cheese and grand manier infused prawn with sauce. We also started on the bread, crusty though soft on the inside with heavy handed slatherings of butter.

Amuse Bouche

French Bread

To cleanse our palate before our main course we were served sorbet. At least I thought it was sorbet! It turned out to be cream with tomato and ginger finely chopped which was refreshing.

Palate Cleanser and Champagne

Our entrees were red mullet and lamb sweetbread. I was dubious about sweetbread as I knew it was a euphemism for lamb innards. However it was well cooked with a chewy interior complemented by a spinach sauce. My red mullet was served cold dressed with flower petals and a light tart sauce. It was a light starter which was too pretty to eat!

Lamb Sweetbread

Red Mullet Entree

We were also offered wine to complement our main and I received a recommendation from our waiter to have a Loire Valley blanc which was rather fruity. Only one waiter spoke English to us and the other waitstaff served us in French, it was neither rude nor patronising although my dear friend understood more French than I did!

The main salon had a few other guests who were mostly locals enjoying the set menus although a mature couple were indulging in the degustation – seven courses accompanied by four wines. One day I may come back for this, even though I’m not certain that I could finish seven courses!

For our mains we ordered roasted veal and black cod, prawn and chicken with rice. It was a bit strange to have chicken and seafood on the same plate! Nevertheless the cod was steamed perfectly so the fillets smoothly fell apart when cut. The veal was well done yet remained tender.

Seafood with rice

After polishing off all of this we felt sated but not overly full. Instead the Champagne and wine combination was allowing us to melt away into our salon chairs. When our waiter cheekily asked us if we had changed our minds about dessert, it was impossible to say non!

It was a decision that we could not regret – the dessert was the finale of the meal. Pistachio crème with cherries sliced in half on top a piece of shortbread-like biscuit and caramel slices. It was great for sharing even if the greedy part of me wanted it all to myself.

Cherry and Pistachio Dessert

With such a grand finale we thought the meal was over until we were served with petit fours – a mini macaron, a citron tart with a gold leaf and a small vanilla tapioca-like cake. Even after completing the feast we didn’t feel like we were bursting but rather well-fed like French ariostocrats or ladies of leisure.

In great timing the sun had finally arrived for an afternoon of shopping as we stepped back onto the streets of Saint Germain to enjoy the Parisien lux lifestyle – if only for a day until we returned to glampacking by night.

Petit Fours

 

Traditional Italian Food Explained: Pizzoccheri

Pizzoccheri

Pizzocheri is buckwheat pasta with luxuriously gooey cheese. It’s a northern Italian dish with heartwarming carbohydrates including potatoes and ‘coste’ which is similar to chard. The sauce is made using butter and sage. The ingredient which completes the dish is melted cheese called ‘bitto’ – the typical cheese from the Alps.

The pasta itself is short and is flecked with brown pieces. Overall the dish is Italian comfort food at its best, tasty, cheesy and leaves you feeling extremely satisfied.

 

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