February 23, 2012

Wanderlust Photo – Miyajima Island, Japan





My shoes crunched the sandy white gravel on Miyajima Island as enthusiastic deer surrounded us, nuzzling our hands for food. Unfortunately, we had nothing to offer though the smells of roasting corn on the cob and sizzling squid tentacles from street vendors suggested otherwise.

Down on the beach, the majestic red torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine stood grandly over us, framed by the clear blue sky. The gate appeared to float in the low-tide. Late afternoon light casted a torii shadow over locals posing for photos. Japanese girls in their stiletto-heeled boots dodged the seaweed as they hold up peace signs for the lens.

As I breathed in the salty sea air, pausing to bask in the remaining autumn sunlight before dusk, I savoured this unique moment of old and new Japan.



Tips for travelling on a budget in Japan…and still eat like the locals!

View of Tokyo Tower

 

Japan isn’t known as a budget travel destination. However, it is possible to stretch your yen without going hungry. When I backpacked Japan, I managed to eat more than just ngiri.
My tips for budget travel in Japan:
  • Get a Japan Rail Pass – I travelled on the 14 Day pass which now costs about $600AUD. On the pass we travelled extensively throughout Japan on the high speed bullet trains. You can jump on any JR train including the JR Yamamote line in Tokyo.
  • Eat at food stalls – the hole in the wall eateries in train stations and off the street. A steaming bowl of udon noodle soup is usually only 120 yen with seaweed and tofu.
  • Have a breakfast at a bakery. The self serve Bread Talk-style bakeries are everywhere – in shopping malls and train stations. Stock up on the buns for snacks on a train ride as they’re cheaper than buying goods from the singing waitresses on JR trains.
  • Drink coffee from a vending machine. It’s out of a can, but coffee is still coffee, right?


  • Eat dinner from a vending machine. This perhaps isn’t as appealing as drinking coffee from a can.
  • Buy a bento box dinner. I admit buying a bento box meal in Japan is like getting a Happy Meal when you’re a kid. It’s strangely exciting, particularly as you don’t quite know what pickled vegetable you’re eating and you half expect to find a toy inside the box.
  • Take an overnight train. We took a train (with three changeovers) from Sapporo all the way to Kyoto. This was a crazy 13 hour journey but we did save on one night’s accommodation and saw some beautiful scenery along the way.

One of my readers asked about seeing more budget travel posts just as I was drafting this article. I promise I’ll be doing a lot more budget travel posts regularly. Follow my tweets and stay tuned!

Wanderlust Photo – Himeji, Japan


Himeji castle is a UNESCO site and Japan’s most visited castle. The complex was originally built as a fort back in the 14th century. The castle itself was erected in the 17th century and is a classic Edo-era structure. It stands ostentatiously at the top of a hill and is part of a complex consisting of 83 wooden structures.

Getting to the very top involves climbing extremely steep stairs in your socks, as you have to take your shoes off to preserve the wooden floors. You get a plastic bag to carry your shoes around with you!

According to history, the shogun’s wife would sit in the small room on the fifth level wearing her finest kimono waiting praying to the shinto shrine.

I just couldn’t imagine wearing a kimono and climbing the steep narrow stairs!




The view is a little different in the 21st century…


Mt Fuji – All aboard to the fifth station

Going on a day trip on a JTB Mt Fuji/Hakone tour was a mix of pure touristy goodness and the finite moments that hold your breath.

JTB is a well oiled tour company that runs ever so smoothly. Our friendly guide for the day explained the A-Z of Japan throughout the tour, complete with texta drawn pictures and a few bad jokes thrown in for good measure. He was very helpful and even showed everyone how to get back to their hotel from the drop off at Shinjuku station.

Seeing the summit of Mt Fuji is pretty awesome. The only other mountain I’ve seen is Mt Pilatus in Switzerland which is only 2732m compared to Mt Fuji’s height of 3776m.

As the bus drove up past the third station, we caught a glimpse of the snow capped peak and everyone simultaneously gasped.

When we got to the fifth station, it was a bit of a tourist trap. There were all sorts of strange souvenirs, like Mt Fuji air in a can. Outside there were also donkeys waiting to give someone a ride, hopefully not all the way up the mountain though.

We took our guide’s advice and went to look at the shrine where trekkers prayed for a safe journey before their departure.

Red leaves outside the shrine.

My only advice is that if you’re in a hurry to get back to Tokyo city after the tour take the Shinkasen back. The traffic along the expressway is awful and we got stuck for over an hour.

Dispelling Myths About Japanese Food

Japan has an amazing variety of food. However, its not always everyone’s cup of tea. Wei and I met an young American couple during our Mt Fuji/Hakone day tour who couldn’t stomach the local cuisine.

“I don’t eat cold meat,” the girl claimed. They picked their way through lunch whilst Wei and I happily ate deep fried lotus, salted chicken, grilled fish and the side salad.

They were missing out big time. Not only on lunch but of experiencing a big part of Japan’s culture. On a daily basis we would eat onigiri, drink miso, have numerous cups of matcha and eat dessert pocky.

My favourite meal in Tokyo was at a place called Toringen in Akasaka. The restaurant didn’t have an English menu so we ordered with a bit of help from an English-speaking waiter.

We wanted to try yakitori so we ordered chicken and beef sticks. The waiter asked how many and I said four, but really I should’ve said eight. Four meant four sticks in total, not four of each…Oops. The yakitori came out with a dipping sauce and was divine!


The chef at work

We also ordered a Japanese style salad with bonito flakes. I didn’t realise what the flakes were – dried fish shaved ever so thinly that it was almost like the skin of an onion.

Wei and I were considering dessert when we were delivered a plate of beef. Surprise dish! This was the most succulent, melt in your mouth wagyu beef. Fatty? Yes. But it was absolutely amazing.

All up it was only 3400 yen, not bad to escape a rainy Tuesday night in Tokyo.

Picasso Exhibition at the National Art Centre, Tokyo

The National Art Centre, Tokyo is the newest addition to Tokyo’s art scene, so much so that some guidebooks fail to give it a mention. The postmodern building opened in Jan ’07. Its futuristic-looking with glass paneled walls snaking around the building in a continuous wave. The UFO like main entrance welcomes you inside.

PICASSO: From the Collection of the Musee National Picasso, Paris is being exhibited until Dec 14th. I spotted adverts for the exhibition whilst on the JR Yamanote Line and tracked down the museum in Roppongi.

The exhibition showcases 200 Picasso works from his early works to his career-defining pieces. It contains charcoal drawings of Greek mythology, abstract sculptures, mixed media and of course classic Picasso Cubist oil on canvas work with their heavy lines and stilted shapes.

I have seen my share of Picasso’s having visited the Guggenheim Museum’s Spanish Paintings from El Greco to Picasso exhibition in Dec ’06. But never this many in one exhibition!

It was fascinating to see the development of his style and the variety of mediums that he worked with. I loved Picasso’s portraits and landscapes. Some of the artworks though were fairly hard hitting. In particular, Massacre in Korea, 1951, and Reading a letter, 1921.

A nice little Picasso quotation:

“Art is a lie that makes us realize the truth.”

— Pablo Picasso

If you’re in Tokyo before Dec 14th, go see the exhibition!

One thing that we noticed though is that a lot of retirees visit museums. I think its great that art is appreciated by young and old. At the National Art Center there was a group of 3 adults resting on the awesome chairs they have. They offered to move over so I could sit down and thought we were hilarious (’cause we’re Asian and speak English). Anyway one of the ladies found an air vent on the floor and pretended she was Marilyn Monroe. So kawaii! Only in Tokyo.

Murals in the Roppongi Tunnel enroute to the Art Center

Relaxing on the chairs

To get there on the Metro: Get on the Chiyoda Line to Noga-zaki station – its just outside!

Finding Peace in Hiroshima, Japan

Still continuing on the Japan trip theme, in chrono order of course, we went on some amazing day trips from Osaka.

The first was to Hiroshima. We got atrociously lost in Hiroshima but we eventually found the Peace Park, the Memorial Museum and the Atomic Dome. This is something that you have to see for yourself in Japan. I think as a traveller its easy to get lost in your itinerary and forget about why we travel in the first place. To push ourselves out of our comfort zones.
To learn about history. To understand how events like the bombing of Hiroshima changed the world.

This week was of course a historic week with President-elect Obama taking centre stage. Change is something that everyone wants to believe in. Peace is another.

Highlights of Kyoto – a mix of old and new Japan

It’s easy to see why you can fall in love with Kyoto…and never want to leave. We re-arranged our travel plans to spend all four full days in Kyoto. Originally we were going to head to Hiroshima from Kyoto but we decided to go from Osaka instead to maximise our time.

We covered heaps of ground! In one day we went to Nijo Castle, Kyoto Imperial Gardens, Ryoanji temple and the Golden Pavilion! The downside to packing it all in is that by the end of the day you end up being absolutely knackered with sore feet and a zillion photos to pour over. That’s half the fun though.

I recommend going on Johnnie’s Walking Tour, Johnnie explained a lot about the history of Kyoto, the strange but tolerant mix of Shintoism and Buddhism and how the art of Geisha is slowly fading. It’s a 5 hour walk though with no lunch break, so bring snacks!

But my favourite place of all in Kyoto was the Heian Shrine and its gardens. The shrine looks like its in a desert with all the white gravel surrounding it, but behind it is a beautiful, luscious garden. It’s so peaceful and tranquil. Plus you can stop for a tea break at a little cafe where we met the loveliest waitress who offered to take photos for us happily.

I would also recommend staying at Kyoto Travellers’ Inn, especially in the Japanese-style rooms with Tatami mats. Very good base for sight seeing – we walked to the Kyoto Municipal Museum of Art, Heian Shrine and the Philosopher’s Walk from the hotel. However the 100 Rakuten Sightseeing bus is a great option for getting directly to major tourist sights as well for only 220 yen, it took us back from the Silver Pavilion to the hotel.

I vouch to one day return…

Zen garden on the grounds of the Silver Pavilion or Ginkakuji Temple (currently undergoing restoration work)

Moss!

The Philosopher’s Walk

The gardens of Heian Shrine

Korean War Memorial

Shinto Shrine

Higashi Honganji Temple

Buddha statues on the grounds of the Golden Pavilion

The Golden Pavilion

Nijo Castle

Discovering Sapporo – Sweets, Shopping and Sapporo Beer!

Sapporo is a surprising little city. The warmth of the locals is amazing. When we got off the train it was raining and I couldn’t be bothered fishing around in my mammoth backpack to find my little brolly. We got a tad lost and were standing on a street corner holding a soggy map.

A very kind lady offered to help us and not only walked us to our hotel but also shared her umbrella with us! I asked her name in Japanese and introduced myself and Wei Yi San. This apparently highly impressed Wei.

Sapporo is…

  • Sapporo Station and funky underground malls

  • Ishiya Chocolate Factory – a strange Charlie in the Chocolate Factory experience with lots of kitsch statues, corny songs and random exhibits

  • Odori Park, with the TV Tower in the background

  • Sapporo Beer Museum – beiru kudosai?

  • Only a 90 minute train ride to Lake Toya which is famous for hosting the 2008 G8 Summit and onsen!

  • Hand and foot springs around Lake Toya

An Introduction to Tokyo, Japan

After stepping off the plane into Narita Airport with our 8 kilogram backpacks, the biggest challenge seemed to be finding the platform of the Narita Express. With seconds to spare till the train left, we ran along the platform with several Japanese station attendants in their meticulous uniforms coming to our rescue. Each one ushered us, indicating the correct carriage and helped to save the doors from sliding shut in front of our jet-lagged faces.

This was my first introduction to Japan. It was also my first train ride in a long time.

The Narita Express makes for a calm journey easing you into the complexities of Japanese culture. During the 60 minute ride to Shinjuku, Wei Yi and I saw a shrine nestled in a hilltop forest, plastic-looking houses with classic Japanese style roof tiling and patches of semi-rural farming. Once on the JR Yamanote line, however, we were bombarded with huge billboards for Asahi beer, 10 storey shopping malls and cube-shaped cars parked along the railway tracks.

For the first night in Japan we stayed at the Shinjuku New City Hotel. Functional and basic, the hotel offers clean rooms, yukata robes and slippers and a small bathroom. The hotel staff all speak English, but best of all is the free shuttle service to and from Shinjuku station. It makes it easy to get to the pulsating heart of Shinjuku.

View from our hotel window.

Shinjuku is gaudy, modern, edgy, neon, consumerist Tokyo at its best. Without leaving the station you’re surrounded by department stores, cafes and food kiosks and a non-stopping mass of people. Venturing onto the streets, there are restaurants, shops and karaoke all with hawkers outside hoping to catch your attention.

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