Wanderlust Photo – Deep Fried Sushi in Manila
Deep fried beef sushi with egg drizzled in roe and mayonnaise.
Julie introduced me to this dish at Haiku Japanese restaurant at Greenbelt 3 in Makati. The tender beef was offset by the crunchiness of the battered seaweed. Very tasty and moorish, even better when accompanied by a mango daiquiri for only 185 php.
This is a very Filipino take on Japanese as I’ve never encountered deep fried sushi in Japan (or back home for that matter)! Nevertheless it was the stand out dish out of all the food I tasted in the Philippines.
How to Explore Intramuros, Manila in Style
Still on the search for a real piece of Manila, on my very last day in the Philippines I visited Intramutros. Intramutros translates to “within the walls” – the oldest part of Manila is enclosed by the walls of the original fortress built by the Spanish in the 16th Century.
Before we even entered the gates though we were swarmed by hawkers selling hats and sunglasses. Two straw woven hats and one pair of sunnies later, we travelled in style on a horse drawn carriage tour of the historical area. It’s a smooth ride around town and easy on the budget for only 250 php plus the 75 php entry fee.
The original political, military and religious hub of the city, Intramuros is a well-preserved area thanks to the restoration after WWII. There’s no Jollibee or Starbucks visible in sight. Buildings in the area have a distinctive Spanish influence. Some of the walls of the fortified compound contain bulletholes.
For some reason I originally thought Intramuros was a small town, like a park you could stroll around. There’s a reason why we took the carriage ride! Intramutros is actually the fifth district of Manila, over half a square kilometre and features many schools and universities.
The tour takes you to the oldest churches in the city. San Agustin Church was built in 1571. The Church has massive wooden doors featuring intricate carvings. Hawkers of a different kind ran up to our carriage selling rosaries and bracelets. I bought three beautiful blessed bracelets for 100 php.
Manila Cathedral is the largest church in the city. Inside Catholics celebrated mass, reading prayers that echoed down the church. A statue of La Pieta, one of the 11 authorized replicas in the world, features inside the cathedral.
Intramuros offers a different side to Manila, outside of the shopping malls. Just a warning though to watch your belongings in Intramuros. Be street smart and hold onto your bags and cameras.
The Journey to Pagsanjan Falls, Philippines
The boatmen of Pagsanjan Falls are agile creatures. Using their sheer strength, they push, heave and maneuver their boats down the Bumbungan River. Over the narrow rocky rapids, they dragged the hulls of the faded canoes over transversally placed steel pipes. To propel the boat upstream, they paddled or pushed the soles of their weathered feet up against river rocks. The boatmen of Pagsanjan Falls make the hour-long journey to the waterfall appear almost effortless.
Pagsanjan Falls is located 90 minutes drive from downtown Manila, far removed from the chaos of the city. One of the Philippines most popular waterfalls, Pagsanjan featured in the Academy-Award winning movie Apocalypse Now.
At one of the many resorts alongside the Bumbungan River, you can purchase your own experience into the “Heart of Darkness”. For about 1375 pesos you receive a lifejacket, a cushion, a helmet, a boat-ride and entry via raft past the falls. Each fiberglass canoe is six-feet long and can only host a maximum of three passengers and two boatmen.
The ride began via towboat as the canoes are pulled to the entry point of the gorge. This short ride takes you past resorts, lazy water buffalo and children swimming alongside the canoes, eagerly waving to get a smile from you in return.
Once past the official entry, the journey becomes utterly tranquil. The air is clear and fresh. All you can hear are the boat paddles swishing through the water and miniature waterfalls trickling into the river. Dragonflies with bright blue wings fluttered around the boats – one even landed on my arm almost as if to be admired.
The silent, dense evergreen rainforest seems almost uninhabited. This was disputed when suddenly the nearby bushes rustled loudly and one of the boatmen cried out. Leaping out of the boat, he started throwing rocks into the bushes. A two feet long chocolate-brown lizard appeared out in the open, darting about the side of the gorge to escape. Lucky for the lizard, otherwise he would’ve become a barbecued dinner!
After passing through a mandatory rest stop, where all passengers exit the boats whilst they are lifted over the narrowest region of the river, we soon arrived the main falls. The gushing 120 metre high waterfall penetrated the gorge with its roaring sound. The climax of the journey was the super soaking raft ride. Piling onto the bamboo raft with ten other passengers, two boatmen pull along a rope leading into the depths of the waterfall. As the roar got closer, we gripped onto the raft. The intense pressure beneath the waterfall was like a 100 simultaneous showers.
On the other side of the waterfall is a dark cavern. Cool inside, be careful on the slippery rocks whilst you await your return raft ride from the shadows into the sunlight.
Back in the canoe, the downward journey continued to be relaxed and peaceful but goes quickly over 16 turbulent rapids.
The boat ride to Pagsanjan Falls is an adventure for all ages. As long as you’re prepared to get wet and put your life into the hands of the professional boatmen, it’s a unique way to experience the distinctive natural beauty of the Philippines.
The Tattoo Artists of Boracay
I confess that sometimes when I’m on holiday I like to do touristy things. This could involve something scandalous like getting a henna tattoo!
Henna tatts are generally safe (though use your best judgement). After its dried, it’s best to wash off the henna and the ink will remain on your skin for about 10 days.
In Boracay, the best and highly skilled tattoo artists draw freehand. Like a butterfly. Or from a photograph on your phone. Impressive, yes?
A Boracay Day Spa Experience – The Mandarin Day Spa Mango Butter Facial
In the evening, the Mandarin Day Spa at the Boracay Mandarin Island Resort is aglow with sparkling fairy lights around its Japanese style garden complete with a bonsai tree. Lured inside, Jules and I discovered a seemingly small day spa with a menu that featured a Mango Butter Facial for 1,100pesos or $28AUD for 1hr 15min.
Being in the tropics, mangoes are abundant in the Philippines. You can drink green mango shakes, mango daiquiris and buy them cheaply from the markets. Naturally, I was drawn to the idea of having mango slathered onto my skin.
According to the brochure: an intensive moisturiser, mango butter has moisturising, softening and regenerating properties to the skin. It has also a protective effect against UV radiation and serves as a natural sunshield.
It sounded like exactly what our skin needed after a day in the sun.
1. Aesthetics
The foyer of the Mandarin Day Spa is small, with a cushioned bench to wait and peruse magazines. We left our thongs (literally because we forgot to collect them on the way out!) on the shoe rack and put on white rubber day spa thongs instead. After a very short wait, we were ushered up an incredibly steep spiral staircase to the treatment room. It was an Ocean View Room, my favourite! As the sun was setting and twilight began, orange hues were cast over the fading light of the sky. It was the last sight to be seen before the facial started.
2. Facilities
The Ocean View Room was large and spacious. We were lucky to have it all to ourselves! The treatment chairs were huge leather loungers with extended foot rests. They were extremely comfortable and were set to a reclining position for the facial. Soft classical music played in the background.
3. Treatment/Service
This was practically faultless. The facial began promptly with our hair being swept back by a small one-buttoned towel. Our skin was first cleansed – wiped with warm towels and a cooling gel applied. The exfoliation used the fine sands of White Beach of Boracay. The therapist was very gentle and I could feel the effects of my pores being purified and my skin being smoothed over.
After the second cleansing, it was time for the mango buttering to start. Slices of cucumbers were placed over my eyes and then strips of tissue laid over my entire face. The mango butter was then lightly smeared across my skin. The layer of tissue allowed the butter to slowly seep into my skin without being overwhelming since it caused an acute tingling sensation.
Whilst the mango butter worked its magic, the therapists skilfully massaged our shoulders and arms. This was rather unexpected! The tissue strips were then removed, pulling off some facial hairs in the process, and our faces were cleansed again for the last time.
The treatment ended with a rejuvenating, non-biting, ginger tea. Jules and I then swanned outside, feeling fresh and glowing, ready to take on whatever the full moon Boracay night had to offer us.
The Boracay Day Spa Experience – Kai Regency Spa
Boracay is the best-known escape away from it all in the Philippines. It’s white beaches, palm trees and laid back atmosphere lures the most adamant city dweller to relax. For me, relaxing means pampering – manicures, massages and meditation!
The first thing I wanted to do? “Get me to a day spa, stat!”
Kai Regency Spa
Upon entering the oriental themed Kai Day Spa , the smell of peppermint invades your nostrils. The charming therapists greet you and offer you the menu to peruse. We opted for the classic Swedish one hour massage which was only 1,000 peso or $25 AUD. This included the use of the sauna, steam room and spa before the treatment.
1. Aesthetics
Kai is a clean and minimalist space. Warm interiors feature lots of wooden mirrors and hues of orange and brown. Once we were changed into our robes, we settled in the tea room which featured two white chaise lounges for putting your feet up whilst sipping sweet cold tea. Each area is separated by curtains and we didn’t see many other patrons, creating the illusion of privacy.
2. Facilities
The ladies change room was large with a dressing table area that had huge mirrors, hairdryers and containers of moisturiser, cotton buds, powder etc for preening – a very nice touch for guests heading straight out after their treatment. The lockers were secure and about two feet tall – more than enough room for all your belongings.
In the spa section – there were two jacuzzis and a small steam room and sauna room. No other guests were using these facilities. We couldn’t quite work out though – were you meant to unrobe in the spa? We kept our towels on as it wasn’t quite like an onsen in Japan…
However, a quick shower before the treatment made me feel self conscious – the glass doors on the showers weren’t very private and the recess opened out to a glass window to a wall. I half expected someone to walk past!
3. Treatment & Service
All the staff were polite and very softly spoken – some spoke very little English. This caused a little confusion before the treatment as we were slowly ushered from station to station and realised we were meant to shower before our massage. (We were wearing bathers at the time though.)
The treatment rooms were all upstairs and in a common 6 bedroom suite. Once on the massage bed, the treatment begins with a breathing exercise of 3 deep inhales and exhales. My therapist, Joan, had great pressure and technique and I felt all my upper neck tension slowly disappearing.
After the treatment, I felt completely at ease and light as air. The experience finishes with ginger tea which has a serious bite! It’s very good for your throat but very strongly infused.
The “change room lady” chatted to us before we left and enquired about our nationalities. “You’re not Filipino, not even half?” She asked. The answer seems to surprise everyone…
I was pretty spoilt since visiting Bali and perhaps I may not find another day spa like The Samaya soon. But Kai was inexpensive and very relaxing. We visited again for another massage – yet the second massage is a complete blur as we slept the whole way through. Apparently I was snoring!
So I definitely prefer a morning or afternoon massage – evening massages are perhaps a little lost on you when you’ve been partying the night before and/or just had a big seafood dinner.
24 Hours In Manila, Philippines
Before I landed in Manila I met two native Filippinos on my Perth to Manila via Brunei flights. One gentleman told me he was going on a tour of churches and quietly read his bible throughout the flight. My second seat companion hailed from London, narrowly missed the volcanic ash chaos and warned me to be careful, watch my drinks in bars and “not get too much drunk.”
First Impressions
Manila is a sprawling city. It’s so separate and distinctive from one area to the next. The traffic is utterly crazy. Cars pull out in front of each other constantly and traffic lights are a suggestion. In this game of friendly on road co-operation – I didn’t see one accident – it can take 45 minutes to get from an adjacent suburb to the next. No wonder there are hawkers weaving in and out of cars selling everything from bottled water to fishing rods.
For some reason, I found it difficult to get my bearings in the city. I couldn’t pin point one exact main street or landmark. Maybe this was because I was travelling in taxis from one place to another and the roads felt like a blur. Maybe it was we were staying in Makati which is a gentrified urban area and financial district – almost a city itself. Maybe it was because I didn’t organise any transportation.
Nevertheless if you only had 24 hours in Manila, I recommend doing the following three things:
1. Eat a buffet dinner
Filipinos love to “eat and talk” at the same time. Buffets let you socialise and eat as much as you want. At the Lola Maria Restaurant the buffet featured Filipino foods like chicken adobo, deep-fried seaweed, barbecued seafood and smoked tuna belly and DIY halo-halo for dessert. I was intrigued by the seaweed with little “grapes” which were salty and burst in your mouth as you crunched through the leaves.
2. Shop at least one mega mall
Pace yourself in Manila, shopaholics. There are a lot of shopping centres in Manila like Greenbelt, Rockwell and the infamous Mall of Asia – which I’ll go into more detail about in another post. If you were pressed for time and on a tight budget, I’d have to recommend visiting the department store Landmark for its crazily cheap prices. I picked up a bikini for $15, a headband for $2 and socks for 50c AUD.
3. Have a night out at The Fort
A Saturday night must start, though not necessarily end, at the Fort in Bonifacio. A hub of nightlife, the area is full of restaurants, bars and nightclubs. The nightclubs may even have heavily made-up lady-men hostesses who hand out business cards stating they are a Broker/Realtor/Actress. Seriously.
Pier One is a themed bar set on the high seas. Wait staff are dressed in sailor outfits, signal them with an ahoy there if you dare and order cocktails for around $4 AUD. Bar foods like sisig (of the non-mystery meat variety) are a great accompaniment if on the off chance you’re still hungry after a buffet dinner!
Once you’re ready to hit the dance floor head to Encore. This is quite possibly the nicest nightclub I’ve ever been to in a long time. Chandeliers hang down over the stairwell as you strut upstairs into the main third floor area. The DJ pumps out a heady mix of old school RnB and new hits whilst the dancefloor is shoulder-to-shoulder with the trendy 20-something set.
A private booth at Encore will set you back 1,000 peso per head or roughly $25 AUD inclusive of all food and drinks so keep them coming. The only downside is that patrons still smoke inside the clubs.
Once you’re all danced out, jump into a cab back to your hotel. If the song playing on the radio is “It’s Time To Go Home Now” you know you’ve had a great night.
How to Survive a Group Holiday When You’re An Independent Traveller
When my best friend Julie first invited me on a group holiday to the Philippines I was rather apprehensive. I’m an independent traveler. If I’m not traveling alone I’m usually only with one other person.
Group travel requires patience. The problem is that I’m incredibly impatient. I’m not used to waiting for people to get ready in the morning and trying to make democratic decisions on where to go/what to eat with others. My daily travel philosophy is – you’re here, make the most of it and get up and go!
So before my flight to Manila I adopted the three word mantra: Let it go!
Years of working in PR and event management has turned me into a bit of a control freak. I enjoy pre-trip planning and organising. I like having a list of places to visit and an itinerary which is flexible.
So agreeing to go on a group trip where everything was organised was both a relief and a shock to the system for me. There were 10 of us traveling to Boracay via Manila and it started to feel like school camp, Filipino style.
Positives:
- Less worrying and organising, more time to have fun
- Language barrier – not speaking Tagalog – wasn’t a big deal
- Constant companionship – always someone to chat to, borrow clothes off and party with
- Flexible itinerary meant that each day was an unknown adventure
- More likely to try new things and eat local food
- Filo friends were street smart and always looking out for us
Negatives:
- My non-Filo friends and I were a bit complacent – in other words we didn’t really do much organising/bartering/researching
- Waiting, waiting, waiting for others
- I was less likely to make an effort to speak Tagalog – I usually adopt at least a few local phrases
- Fitting into the group schedule – you can’t always just do whatever you want
- Peer pressure – yes this still exists outside of school and you can always be coerced by the group to go on a dune buggy/drink out of a bucket/eat raw egg
- My friends learnt the hard way that I may be “slightly irritable” if I don’t start the day with a cup of tea or breakfast. Sorry guys!
In the end through I survived an action-packed one week in the Philippines with the best memories of spending one week with friends that knew the ins and outs of Manila, the best traditional foods to eat (chicken adobo…) and drinks to try (green mango shakes and four seasons juice) and local customs. Their generous hospitality and go-with-the-flow attitude was greatly appreciated – thanks a million Julie and Will!
How to survive a group holiday?
- Expand your patience as much as possible
- Relax into the flow of the group dynamic
- Have time for yourself – even if it’s just a quick morning walk
- Do you own research before you go – if you have mandatory places you’d like to visit make them a priority
- Enjoy living in the moment with your friends – it’s always short-lived
- Accept that it’s all part of the adventure – not knowing what the day will bring is exciting!
Beautiful Boracay – A photolog














































